Biscuit House: Burrito

I’m a torn man.

I approached Biscuit House with the expectations of it being an entry in The Great Burrito Chase. My philosophy has always been, if it’s on the menu, it should be up to the standards of whatever cuisine they have specialized in, no matter if it’s something out of their comfort zone. Like the Biscuit House’s breakfast burrito. It is good, for sure, if not overly noteworthy. And that should be the end of it all. Yet…

There are too many things to like about this spot, even its location inside a Toyota dealership. That is admirable — who on earth opens a restaurant inside a car dealership? No longer are you greeted by a maître d’, but rather by three salesmen? (All of whom were very nice.) Madness!

No, this is one of the few times I found the need to get past a good, but not fantastic burrito. And by all means, if the mood strikes, you could do a lot worse. You get three eggs stuffed in a chipotle tortilla, with your token cheese and sausage, all very flavorful. The packaged sour cream and what I assume is La Victoria salsa pull the impression down. An O.K. meal in itself, but quite possibly not worth the trek to a car dealership.

Illustrative image #1Illustrative image #2Illustrative image #3

It is all moot, though, as the biscuits are excellent. Sample a plain one, and you’ll find no need for gravy. The bite is good, and the flavor is pronounced. It’s something you’d want to take home and drape in any and all crazy toppings. Jam; ham; lamb; it’s all OK.

Yet, their signature dish, the Sunshine Pizza, is what it is about. The crust, as one would expect, is all biscuit; the sauce is all gravy. No surprises come with the sausage and ham toppings, nor the cheddar cheese. Where it all comes together, though, is the core of it all — two eggs, over easy, sitting right on top. The combination is delicious, and sure, I get how you might think this sounds like just another biscuit sandwich. It isn’t. It is so much more, and with each part prepared just so, you get a picture you want to get familiar with.

I don’t think it was downright wrong to go with the burrito — my points above still hold. If it’s on the menu, and you charge for it, the dish should be as good as any of your signatures. And the burrito isn’t bad. I don’t regret ordering it.

Luckily, our intern, who meticulously prepared the outing, did go with the recommended dish, and it has to be said: It’s the way to go.

Yes, it is bizarre walking into a car dealership for a meal, but whatever. When what you get is an excellent meal, then the indignity is more than worth it.

Remi’s rating

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6969 Tyee Dr Sw, Tumwater, WA 98512

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