Tortillaphilia

Gushing over a quesadilla might seem unseemly for a tortillaphile—it is, after all, the more banal of tortilla-based dishes. But the heart craves what the heart craves, and my heart unapologetically craves Carmelo’s quesadillas.

So, as to not get ahead of myself, it’s helpful to have an idea of how Carmelo’s ordering system works. Here, you walk up to a kiosk, place your order, and head inside a convenience store to pick up your food. There’s even a small bar area where you can sit and enjoy your meal.

The system is a little Soup Nazi-esque, except friendly. Soup Allies, if you so like.

Digression aside: At the bar, you have a perfect view of how the magic happens. The tomatillo salsa is prepared right in front of you, as are the tortillas—both glorious in confident, no-frills flavors. That is no backhanded compliment, and it is something of an emerging mantra around these parts. If you can return the palate back to its core and still make it flavor-forward, then bravo. It’s an underappreciated balancing act.

With the addition of tender meat and a well-charred tortilla, you have a package that is something truly special.

And let’s toss in a special side recommendation for the veggie tacos. Often, these are served with some hastily sautéed vegetables, but not surprisingly, Carmelo’s steps up the game. The veggies are diced uniformly, and the flavors are carefully balanced. Again, a palate that is scaled back to let the base flavors do the talking.

Carmelo’s might just be a contender for Seattle’s tortilla crown. Banal as the quesadilla may seem on paper—when done right, it’s a work of high art. And Carmelo’s is an artist of a Mexican food.

What To Order: Frankly, you can’t go wrong with anything, but try to get through the whole gamut of quesadillas.

— Remi A. Olsen